At first glance, it may seem simple to create a sweet, gourmand fragrance with notes of pineapple, raspberry, pear or apple... but think again: these scents pose a major challenge.
While many essences can be extracted naturally, most fruits don't produce enough essential oils for cost-effective extraction. As a result, there are very few fruit scents that can be used in natural perfumery.
Fruity vs HesperidesPopular in perfumery because they often conjure up memories of childhood, of delicacies, pastries and sweets, fruity fragrances generally have a wake full of cheerfulness and sweetness. However, it's almost impossible to create a natural fruity fragrance. But don't confuse fruity with hesperides.
A fruity fragrance evokes notes of watermelon, red berries and pineapple, while a hesperides fragrance is created with citrus fruits such as grapefruit, lemon, orange and bergamot - two different types of fragrance.
Why is it impossible to capture the scent of fruit, but we can capture the scent of citrus fruit?
There are several methods for capturing scents. Distillation is a process used to extract fragrant compounds from raw materials such as flowers, leaves, seeds, etc. Cold expression extraction is a specific method used to obtain essential oils from citrus peel. This method is preferred for citrus fruits because it preserves the aromas, reduces the risk of oxidation and retains the beneficial properties of the material. These methods are not valid for capturing the scent of fruits, as they possess an extremely low essential oil content, making it very difficult and expensive to extract aromatic compounds.
Bottled fruit:In the 19th century, the development of organic chemistry and synthetic molecules enabled perfumers to incorporate fruity notes into their organs, creating fragrances with deliciously sweet scents.
There is also a natural way to recreate these scents. A very interesting exercise for the Nose, but one that requires time and patience. Reproducing a scent with several natural essences.
Each scent has several olfactory facets: rose is not simply floral, it has a slightly fruity raspberry facet, with a hint of acidity and velvety notes. Apples, on the other hand, have a fresh, sweet, slightly floral facet. To reproduce a scent, we need to take all these facets into account and try to find them in other essential oils, so that when blended with the right dosage, we find the desired scent. What makes this exercise interesting is that each perfumer will recreate the scent in his or her own way, since the perception of a scent varies from one person to another.
Some fruity fragrances :
Everyone has their own preferences, however, here are a few fragrances with fruity, sweet and gourmand notes that have garnered great appreciation.
-Viva La Juicy by Juicy Couture (strawberry-cassis): appreciated for its sweet notes of red berries, strawberry and blackcurrant, which give it a seductive, gourmand trail.
-Nina by Nina Ricci (apple-red fruit): a blend of sweet apple and red fruit notes, creating a soft, enveloping fragrance that has seduced many.
-Si by Giorgio Armani (blackcurrant-rose-vanilla): known for its fruity blackcurrant trail, combined with floral and vanilla notes, Si is a bewitching, sophisticated fragrance.
-Lolita Lempicka (licorice-vanilla-aniseed): famous for its distinctive blend of fruity and gourmand notes. Licorice, anise and vanilla create a sweet, original fragrance that has been adopted by many young women.
-Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana (lemon-green-fruit): notes of citrus and fruit, lemon and apple, give it a light, invigorating feel.
-Daisy by Marc Jacobs (strawberry-saffron-grapefruit): beloved for its bright, fresh notes of grapefruit, wild strawberry and saffron, Daisy transports us into a bewitchingly floral and fruity universe.
Our fruity fragrances:
At Kanopé, although we don't use any synthetics, we also have two fragrances with finely fruity notes.
Te Anau transports us to the southern island of New Zealand. The name of a town best known as the gateway to Fiordland National Park, one of the most beautiful places on the island. It envelops us in soft, milky, powdery notes of iris and coconut on a lightly musky ambrette base. A delicate, subtle fragrance that goes perfectly with our daily lives.
- Tandem was inspired by one of the moments of communion I was lucky enough to experience with the person who trained me in the wonderful world of essential oils. Simple moments of discovery and joy. A fresh, luminous scent where sweet mint and lemon combine with the fruity notes of magnolia blossom on a mineral base.
Fruity fragrances, whether they emanate from synthetic notes or the perfumer's savoir-faire, hold fascinating secrets of creativity, patience and innovation. Fragrances with delicious aromas that ensure a wonderful olfactory journey.